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Labbé et Fils “Blanc 2 Noirs” 2015 Our first visit to Champagne Labbe in Chambray was during a particularly rainy stretch of the summer in 2021. So instead of a vineyard tour we got a tour of every barrel and tank in the cellar. It was obvious after just the first few sips that this was a world class wine, and after every barrel we were 1000% convinced. Brothers Jerome and Damien craft some of the finest champagne you have yet to hear of. They are farmers first and the care and attention they show their vines translates to the wine in the most pleasing way. This bottling is 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Meunier showcases the two red grapes of Champagne in an extraordinary way. The concentration of fruit overwhelms the nose and delivers on the palate while maintaining the light airy quality you expect, it is a truly well crafted champagne that we know you will love. TECH SHEET
Pertois Lebrun “L’Ambitieuse” This wine is 100% Chardonnay in stark contrast to the first wine this month. It is also 100% Grand Cru vineyards from Chouilly and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. A blend of two vintages featuring 50% from 2014 and 50% reserve from 2013 strike an amazing balance of two dramatically different years. Another brother duo, Antoine and Clement craft this wine from their many holdings in the Cote des Blancs, an area known to have some of the best Chardonnay plantings in the world. When we last visited the brothers this wine stood out as supremely enjoyable now due to extended time on lees in the cellar and its extra brut style. That being said if you did save it for years you would be rewarded too. We are very excited to offer a champagne from Pertois Lebrun in our club, this is truly one of the best producers you aren’t drinking enough of. TECH SHEET
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Caillez Lemaire “Pur Meunier” 2016 This is actually the bottle we thought of first when we dreamed up our club. It’s a wine made it minuscule quantity and is the absolute definition of a mono-cru wine. It’s all from the village of Damery. All the grapes come from Damery, the wood for the barrels come from the forest on the top of the hill in Damery and the barrels never left Champagne to be constructed. 100% Meunier all from the harvest of 2016. It gives you a very specific look at a great winemaker, one of their best plots of their best grape, Meunier, and a year that really only the best made wines of this quality. It’s the exact opposite of a Grande Marque wine and we love it. If you saw the first edition of ‘one bottle review’ this will look very familiar to you. It’s one to be enjoyed alone or with friends. TECH SHEET
Daniel Moreau “Pièce Maîtresse” Précise, exacting, uncompromising. This describes not only the wine making of Bastien Moreau but the Champagne he has created. He’s been making wines the way his dad did in the 80’s. That’s usually a really bad thing, but not here. There have been no chemicals in the vineyards since 1978 and biodiversity has been commonplace since the 1990’s. In short they were cool before it was cool. This wine is a blend of all three grapes and all grown in close proximity to the cellar. There are 16 individual vineyards all within 10km of each other. The wines are always from one vintage and only made when the conditions are right. Only 8 vintages have been made over the last 30 years. We are very excited about this month’s offerings. TECH SHEET
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Rousseaux Batteux “Les Grandes Voyettes” Verzenay 2019 Visiting the cellar of Adrien Rousseaux is a mind bending experience. Barrels and bottles stacked precariously filled with some of the most sought after champagne in the region. Each barrel holds a different plot where he has coaxed flavors both complex and delicate. The resulting wines often drive us to hyperbole but suffice to say you will not suffer to find praise to heap on this bottling. He’s not a recluse but he doesn’t take many visitors and the biggest production of any one bottling is less than 6,000. This specific cuvée is less than 2,000. 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir, all Grand Cru fruit from Verzenay. Adrien has confessed this to be his favorite cuvée he made in 2019. We tend to agree. TECH SHEET
A. Levasseur “Trait de Saison” 2015 On our most recent trip to visit David Levasseur in Cuchery we revisited some favorites and dug in to some back vintages. The way these champagnes age is amazing to see. With that knowledge David has a program of releasing wines a bit later than others and that is why we are able to have some of this magnificent 2015. Most other people have sold this vintage off years ago and presumably they have mostly been consumed. Here we have the ability to go back in to the not so distant past and taste what that year 2015 provides. A year with great ripeness and expressive fruit that was not universally loved by tasters. This, however, is a shining example of a great producer making great champagne in a less than optimal year. Personally we love drinking wines like this, great wines from less than perfect years show how good a winemaker and their terroir actually are. TECH SHEET
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Domaine des Tuileries “Les Crayeres” 2019 Though he grew up in a winemaking family, Bryan Marx is not a classically trained winemaker. This has allowed him to make wines the way he wants and the results are sublime. A visit to see Bryan in Venteuil usually ends 10 meters underground in a hand dug chalk cellar that he used to play in as a child. Now this cellar holds the barrels for his highly sought after project Domaine des Tuileries. “Les Crayeres” is three individual plots from his village in the Marne Valley. Only the best barrels are chosen and blended to show the best of the vintage. Minuscule quantities are made and even less are available in the US. It is the beginning of a new journey into the possibilities of a New Champagne that we are all discovering together with the help of pioneering winemakers like Bryan Marx. TECH SHEET
Famillie Delouvin “Sauvage” It doesn’t take much to convince Geoffrey Delouvin to jump in the truck and take you on a tour of his vineyards. For ten generations his family had been farming in the village of Vandieres in the Marne Valley. His plots are only in this one village, something that is less common than you would imagine. When standing along the road, looking down at the arc of the amphitheater of vines and the village below it really is easy to see the various terroirs at offer. The soils vary from limestone, chalk and clay giving Famillie Delouvin many different grape expressions to play with. In the “Sauvage” bottling Geoff uses 100% Vandieres Meunier from three different plots all with different soil types, at different elevations and expositions. This is a true snapshot of the terroir of the village all presented with no dosage to further show off the beauty of the fruit. TECH SHEET